Farzin Farzid and Pirou Pirou

Tonight I had the most amazing experience I have had here yet. My cousin and his wife got me a ticket to an Iranian pop concert. The two of them and myself and and Benafsheh's brother and his wife all went together. Its the first time since I've been here that I've gone out with and/or spent a good chunk of time with young folks. The scene was intense; everyone dressed up, excited, pushing and filling up the large venue.  

We were there for the 6pm show, and there would be another at 9pm. Benafsheh told me that both shows were sold out. After the initial rush, the room continued to fill slowly. They got a late start and at the slightest sign of activity from the stage area (testing lights, someone walking by, smoke machines) hoots and hollers would rise from the crowd. Benafsheh said “They're here to have a good time. They don't care what's happening, they're going to have it!” I didn't really know what to expect, and had mostly came for the anthropological/culture experience. And. I never could have predicted what I was about to see.

First, a short video to get us hyped for the show. Then, the lights hit stage right to reveal a 10 piece string section being directed by a white-wigged conductor in short tails. Then, lights pan out, revealing one acoustic, one electric guitar, a bass player, 2 people playing two separate sets of key boards, a guy on a drum kit, a guy on hand percussion, and 3 back up singers. The conductor finishes conducting his mini-orchestra, then strides to the middle of the stage, alights the 3 stairs in the middle that lead to the drum-kit platform, and dramatically removes his grey wig to reveal short, black hair, and the fact that he's the singer we've all come to see! Crowd goes wild.

He starts belting/crooning...the lights flash. The smoke rises. The Orchestra plays. The song's title traced itself in English letters on the screen behind. This was a full-on multi-media experience; lights, music, visuals. Theatrics. The next song began with two minstrels with horns perched above the stage in small alcoves, trumpeting back and forth. The third song was about snow and the screen displayed a shifting montage of snowing scenes.

Everyone sat in their seats, clapping their hands over head on the funkier songs, a few dancing in their chairs, singing along often, hooting and whistling and shouting. In the middle the singer announced he'd be taking a break, but that the rest of the musicians would entertain us meanwhile. The band broke into a funk-funk-funky breakdown and rocked it for 10 minutes. Benafsheh told me that this was the song of a singer who is banned in Iran and can only perform abroad, but they were playing it anyway. The singer came back, having transformed from an all-black out fit to a gleaming white one. More crooning, more funky breakdowns, more hooting and hollering.

pizza!

Afterward, we all went to a pizza place; this is where the young folks hang out. I asked more about the youth culture; do people date? Sahar (Benafsheh's brother's wife) sighed and rolled her eyes, which Benafsheh translated as “boy do they ever!” I asked Farshad if they just hang out, or....and he said yes, both. It sounds like the heaviest restrictions come from people's families, and Benafsheh said that even some families are more ok with this now. 

Sahar, choosing dvds from a street seller

Then they told me about the parties young people throw, and showed me some video of them getting down on the dance floor from a recent wedding. And it clicked for me. Public life here is so heavily restricted that much of the social scene is relegated to private spaces; people's homes, where no-one needs to wear a scarf or manteau and you can dance and drink (maybe...) openly. I said, “I haven't gotten to connect with very many young people here” and Benafsheh's brother said “that's because you're always with your dad!” and he's so right. Then Sahar and Ahmad (Benafsheh's brother) started planning a party so that I could meet some more young people.